Wagons Across Wyoming

Hello friends and family! This (admittedly overdue) blog post really starts a few weeks ago in Elko, Nevada. I’d stopped off to gamble in a smoky casino and eat a pasty, the Cornish hand-pie beloved by coal miners, and then decided to visit a museum about the migrations of the mid-1800s that brought successive waves […]

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American Credulity

Hello friends and family! I was listening to the book Fantasyland by Kurt Andersen the other day, which is about the history of the American penchant for the fantastical and untrue, beginning with the very first pilgrims and fortune-seekers who settled Virginia and New England in the 1600s. Most of these settlers were wide-eyed naïfs […]

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The Brown Bits of the Map

Hello friends and family! If you open Google Maps and zoom out on the map of California, you’ll see the southern part of the state is divided into two halves: the green and the brown. The green covers the coastal cities and the forests of the mountain ranges that hem those cities in. I am […]

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Passing Time in the Desert

Hello, friends and family! They say Phoenix is one of the fastest growing municipalities in America. It sprawls in walled subdivisions out into the far reaches of the desert, and its gated neighbourhoods have lawns so green and canals so dry it makes me want to puke. But the rest of the Arizona desert is […]

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Taking it Slow Along Route 66

I rolled into Phoenix a while back, where the low desert heat was at first a balm and then a bother. To escape I loaded up the van and grabbed my new beau and made the requisite Grand Canyon visit. I’ll give the requisite stipulation that it’s far too magnificent to put into words, and […]

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The Ghosts of New Mexico

Hello friends and family! I am back in the true Southwest, the nexus of magic and mystery, a place where the land is too big for words and too deep for comprehension. As soon as I drove into northern New Mexico from the Texas Panhandle a few weeks ago I immediately recognized the smell of […]

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The Friends You Make Along the Way

Hello friends and family! The past few weeks I’ve been meandering through Kentucky, Missouri, Arkansas and Oklahoma. These are states with poor, rural populations that live alongside small highways or tucked away up in the woods, the dirt roads bleeding red clay after the rains. What else can I say that I haven’t already? The […]

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